Bombay to Mumbai: Mosaic of Faith and Festivities

By Pierre Colaco, FYBMS

 Bombay, now known as Mumbai, the tropical jewel of the Arabian sea, a charming island city crested upon the west Coast of India.  Characterized by its divergent cultures, which stems from hundreds of years of rich colonial history, shaping it to be the city it is today. From the cherry red B.E.S.T. buses scurrying around the Indo-Saracenic, Romanesque grande dame - Victoria Terminus, one of the two hearts of this city's lifeline, the other not far from there,  overlooking Back Bay into the sunset - Churchgate.

The truly astonishing aspect of Bombay is how one co- exists, its ‘joie de vivre’. In all of this, one aspect that surprises me is how we celebrate other cultures when it comes to religion and more scrutinizingly - festivals. Bombay is a city where religious diversity is not just a feature, but an important defining characteristic. In this bustling urban landscape, the coexistence of the variety of faiths is a testament to Aamchi Mumbai's rich cultural tapestry. The city is home to a multitude of religious communities, each contributing to its dynamic social fabric.

The city’s cosmopolitan character further complicates its realities. Mumbai is a cultural melting pot where diverse communities live side by side. The fusion of languages, traditions, and lifestyles creates a vibrant yet complex social fabric. While the city prides itself on its inclusivity and cultural richness, underlying tensions and the challenge of integration often surface, but then is our tolerance level put to the test, which considering the social fabric and sensitivity of today's volatile world, produces very good results. 

The skyline of Bombay is not only punctuated with glass skyscrapers and the famous Bandra-Worli sea link, but more importantly by the golden moon crested domes of grand mosques, the geometrically progressive shikaras of ancient temples, and the spires of the sun-lit, stained glass churches. 

Christianity is deeply woven into the city's identity, with historic churches like the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount in Bandra, Afghan Church with its marvellous anglican heritage and stained glass and the small but yet marvellous Holy Name Cathedral with its mellifluous pipe organ and the imposing St. Thomas Cathedral in the Fort area stands testament to Bombay’s colonial past and its enduring spiritual legacy. These churches not only serve their congregations but also host numerous social and charitable activities.

As a member of the Holy Name Cathedral Choir, I sing for mass every Saturday evening. A few minutes before mass, I see many devotees offering up prayers, not only Catholics but folks of other faiths as well, which during mass, when the pipe organ interlude is playing, I see those wishes, prayers, hopes rising up to the heavens as the incense ascends through the air, illuminating our very own mortality. And the crux of all that is christian is Christmas! The celebration of the birth of Our Lord Jesus Christ. Right from little kids getting ready in their little tuxedos and bow ties and small floral gowns for Midnight mass to the intense preparation of Goan sweets at each household to ring in the birth of Christ, this is a fan favourite holiday amongst anyone and everyone in this city. Highlights are a High Mass held during Christmas Eve known as a vigil mass, then a walk at dusk, sauntering the streets of Khotachiwadi, Bandra West or Mahim which are illuminated with polychromatic and sparkly artificial stars and lights hung up from tree to tree, a marvellous sight indeed! Although, Christmas is not our only time of festivities.

There’s also Holy week which culminates in Easter. Starting off with Palm Sunday which is a celebration of the entry of Christ into Jerusalem on a donkey. Here in the morning children and adult-folk alike are seen in procession with palms singing “Hosanna to the King”, a song of praise and jubilation, which ends in a mass. Then on Maundy Thursday, the spotlight is on the Last Supper, and the teachings of Jesus as He was a servant for all even though he was the Son of God, we too should be servants for others. The following day is Good Friday, a day of prayer, repentance and fasting where we commemorate the Crucifixion and Death of our Lord. Here the entire Passion is read by more than one priest which is followed by the sermon and the veneration of the Holy Cross. This week concludes with the Easter Vigil mass on Saturday evening where the resurrection of Christ is celebrated. He has risen after three days and conquered death!

Recently was the 8th of September, known fondly by many catholics as the birthday of their very dear Mama Mary, mother of Jesus Christ. This is a feast, very dear to me. Many catholics around Bombay and some even from Daman, Diu, Goa, the South as well,  flock Mount Mary in Bandra to pay her a visit and seek her blessings. The legend of the wooden statue high up on this hill blessing this Bom Bahia (literally meaning ‘Good Bay’ in Portuguese) goes like this:  A wooden statue of Our Lady, was brought by the Jesuits from Portugal. Few years later, Bandra was invaded by Muscat Arab pirates ransacked the shrine in search of treasure. Disappointed, they chopped off the statue’s right forearm, thinking it was of gold! The broken statue of Our Lady of the Mount was repaired by placing a detachable Child Jesus on it. And ever since it has invited devotees over the world to come pay a visit even so, two Popes paid homage while in Bombay! After buying colourful and anatomical candles (meant for offerings for different intentions), my family heads up for mass held under the big tarpaulin followed by a small prayer inside the shrine. We then visit Marianella, for delicious snacks and then end it by a walk down mount mary steps. What always catches my eye is the devotion to Maria Bambina (The Child Mary) that folks from different religions also deem to pay her a visit!

While driving back home via the newly built Coastal Road, I couldn't help but notice the breathtaking Haji Ali Dargah,  perched on an islet off the coast, in a view I've never seen before. This reminded me of the holy month of Ramadan, solemn to Muslims where Mohammed Ali road is lit up with little luminescent jewels in series. The concoction of aromas, perfumes, food and much more are eye catching. A trip to the Emerald Green and cream Minara Masjid is not complete without a sip of that saffron Noor’s Badam Milk to wash off the spicy aftertaste of that scrumptious kebab wrapped in rotis. And this doesn't even do justice to the others like firni, shawarma, malpua, khiri-kaleji, and the rest of it cooked in the sooty tandoor.

Coming back to september, another major festival throngs the air with the sound of loud Nashik-ke-dhols and tutari’s, which welcomes ganpati bappa, in many homes small and huge colourful idols in makeshift pandals. The iconic Siddhivinayak Temple dedicated to lord Ganesha, is a focal point of devotion for millions which is thronged by devotees during the auspicious ganesh festivities. The red colour in the air, the excitement in each child's eyes as they welcome lord ganesha with intense joy and happiness and pride. Lalbaugh cha raja was also another beautiful landmark that many people visited, where many people stood for almost the entire day, to get one glance at the marvellous, bedazzled idol of lord ganesha.

The ISKCON Temple attracts worshippers and tourists alike, their colourful and vibrant celebrations central to lord krishna highlighted especially during Janmashtami when the makhan-chor is mimicked by the festival of Dahi handi filling the city with vibrant processions and rituals.

In addition to these major faiths, Mumbai is also a melting pot for smaller religious communities, including Jainism and Zoroastrianism. The city’s Jain temples or derasar’s, with their intricate carvings and serene ambiance, reflect the community’s rich traditions and values. The Parsi community, known for its contributions to Mumbai’s development, maintains its heritage through the Agiaries (fire temples) and various philanthropic endeavours.

One can also not forget the Hebrew community of Bombay, although dwindling in number, still present in Kala Ghoda, Fort, with the magnificent and sparkling sapphire blue Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue, which allows Jews a haven in Mumbai.

Festivals in Mumbai are a grand spectacle of this religious harmony. Ganesh Chaturthi, Diwali, Eid, Christmas, and Parsi New Year are celebrated with equal fervour, showcasing the city’s ability to embrace and honour diverse traditions. Streets come alive with decorations, processions, and communal gatherings, turning Mumbai into a living canvas of its multifaceted religious landscape.

In essence, Mumbai’s religious landscape is a vivid reflection of its historical and cultural evolution, where faiths intermingle and coexist, contributing to the city’s unique character. It’s a place where diversity is not just accepted but celebrated, making Mumbai a beacon of interfaith harmony in a complex and interconnected world.