The Reinvention of Parsi Dairy Farm And the community’s continued influence on Mumbai

By Rhyan Aneev, FYBA

 The city of Mumbai has a population larger than some countries. The financial hub of India, it attracts people and communities from all over the country. And these communities bring their food with them. Think of butter chicken from Delhi, or the South Indian idli-sambar, or the Gujarati dabeli. For that matter, think of the ubiquitous pav, which actually has its roots in Portugal. But there is one community that has historically been of extreme importance to Mumbai, but whose cuisine is slowly losing relevance – the Parsi community.

A little history – The Parsi community has its roots in Persia (Modern-day Iran). They are followers of the Zoroastrian religion who, according to tradition, fled to Gujarat during the 8th century CE to escape persecution from Arab Muslims. Since then, the Parsi community has created personalities as diverse as independence activist Dadabhai Naoroji, nuclear physicist Homi Bhabha and singer-songwriter Freddie Mercury.

The first Parsi to settle in what is now Mumbai was Dorabji Nanabhoy in 1640, when the islands were under Portuguese control. Bombay’s rise as a trading and textile hub was largely due to Parsi industrialists such as Jamsetji Jeejebhoy and Cowasji Nanabahi Davar. In the centuries since, the Parsi community has contributed much to the city, both economically and culturally. Famous cultural landmarks such as the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Jehangir Art Gallery and the National Centre for Performing Arts were all built by Parsis. 

And of course, one of the most widely appreciated contributions of the community to the city’s culture was food. The iconic Irani cafes used to be considered some of the best eateries within the cities. Other Parsi restaurants were popular as well, serving specialties such as dhansak and patra ni macchi(I personally recommend Jimmy Boy). One of the oldest surviving establishments in the city, however, is Parsi Dairy Farm.

I remember my first experience with the Parsi Dairy Farm. I was a child, visiting relatives in South Bombay with my parents. By the time we were on our way back, I was hungry and bored – a combination that turns even the most well-natured child irritable. In an attempt to soothe me, my parents made a quick stop at Parsi Dairy Farm, and, to my bemusement, proceeded to buy a large fish.

I’m sure many would react with similar surprise to see what appears to be a fish in a dairy store, but not regulars of the establishment. Mawa ni boi is a traditional Zoroastrian sweet – mawa and nuts are kneaded into the shape of a fish and covered in silver leaf. Traditionally made during Navroz, these sweets symbolize good luck and prosperity. 

The oldest operational dairy farm in the country, Parsi Dairy Farm was founded by Nariman Ardeshir in 1916. He originally sold milk on the street, but the quality of his product soon gained him a following. 108 years and four generations later, his descendants still run the establishment. A system of coupon booklets was introduced for regulars, which has now turned into a mobile app. The store has modernized in other ways as well, as anyone who drops by will notice.

My father is an alumnus of St Xavier’s College, and used to pass by the Parsi Dairy Farm on his way to college. He recalls that it appeared to be a very ordinary dairy store, albeit one whose kulfi had achieved citywide fame.

This is very different from the Parsi Dairy Farm that I see on my daily commute, over thirty years later. The bright red door and the creatively decorated windows, with jars of clarified butter stacked to spell out the word “GHEE”, all scream for attention. Upon entering, rows of display fridges featuring mouthwatering mithai (including the conspicuously fish-shaped boi I mentioned earlier) immediately catch the eye. Beyond them lie a colorful vending machine that dispenses milk drops, fridges stocked with dairy products, and a small cafe where customers can sit down and eat. 

The products are still the same, as are the ingredients and methods of production. But the face of the establishment has changed completely. This dramatic makeover took place only last year. Partnering with branding agency Please See, the descendants of Nariman Ardeshir have injected new life into the Parsi Dairy Farm to give it a more vibrant, modern feel.

Trends change with time. This is true for all things, even food. Parsi establishments, such as Irani cafes, were once some of the most popular in Mumbai. With their unique ambience and furniture, they were seen as a part of the city’s rich cultural heritage. They were frequented by celebrities, actors, artists and sports stars, among others. They were even featured in Bollywood movies. Now, they are slowly fading out of relevance. 

The world is changing at a faster pace than ever before. The rise of social media has exposed people to trends from all over the globe. Mumbai, ever the cosmopolitan city, reflects this. The old is cast aside in favor of the new. One could argue that this has always been the case. However, I find that new trends are becoming old at an increasingly rapid pace.

Love it or hate it, globalization has a death grip on the city – especially the youth. Pizza, Fast food, cuisines from eastern countries like Korea and Japan, or restaurants catering to specific diets such as veganism are all growing in popularity. Irani cafes remain unchanging. Their rules, their atmosphere, even the slightly inconvenient method of payment involving ordering at one counter and paying at another remain unchanged. 

Of course, convenience is subjective. Perhaps this method is more convenient for regulars, since it is what they have been used to for decades. However, many younger customers might find it unnecessary and cumbersome. On one hand, this allows for the preservation of an important part of Mumbai's historic legacy. On the other hand, refusing to change with the times can lead to a drop in business.  In their heyday, there used to be over 400 Irani cafes in the city. Now, less than a fraction of that number remain.

The wheel of time has turned, and Parsi Dairy Farm has accepted its turning. In its new avatar, it strives to thread that needle – appealing to younger generations while ensuring that regulars feel at home. This tactic appears to be successful – whenever I pass by on my daily commute, it seems filled almost to capacity. Customers of all ages can be seen, whether buying dairy products for everyday use, sweets for gifting, or treating their kids to toffee. 

The Parsi community came to India as refugees, but have left a massive imprint on the country in many ways. Their Irani cafes dominated the food scene in Mumbai for decades. And while they may appear on their last legs, the 108 year old Parsi Dairy Farm has just gained a new lease on life.

References

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