Fashion, Status, Power, and Hierarchy: An Exploration of the Interplay between Fashion and Society
Saanjhi Hora
SYBA
From a sociological perspective, fashion reflects social and
cultural norms, and is a symbol of social status and power. Social status is
based on factors like wealth, education, and occupation, and is closely tied to
fashion. Those with higher social status have more power and influence in
society. Hierarchy is the organization of society into levels or ranks, with
different groups having different amounts of power and prestige. There is a
complex relationship between fashion, social status, power, and hierarchy. This
article discusses how fashion, social status, power, and hierarchy are closely
connected in society, affecting people's lives. Fashion has long been used to
create and reinforce social status and power differences, with the industry
influencing societal norms and individual behaviour through materials, designs,
and brands. The article also examines this relationship from a sociological and
anthropological perspective, looking at the impact of fashion on education,
media, politics, and consumerism. It also considers how cultural globalisation
has affected fashion and its connection to social status, as well as the use of
fashion for defiance and the limitations of using it as a symbol of power.
Social status affects an individual's availability to resources, prospects, and power. It is closely linked to social inequality and distribution of power within society. In many cultures, social status is portrayed and reinforced through fashion. Here, fashion does not just refer to clothing but also accessories and any other adornment. Fashion plays an important role in instilling an individuals’ position within the societal hierarchy by the use of distinct fabrics, patterns and brands or labels that are associated with a higher social status, as well as through the display of personal maintenance, grooming habits and accoutrements. For instance, wearing a Louis Vuitton handbag, Tiffany and co. jewellery, and a Dior watch can signal wealth, education, and high social status, while the use of more modest or functional clothing, even a thrifted top, may signal a lower social status. Apart from the utilisation of specific fashion elements, the way in which fashion is utilised and presented, can also strengthen social prestige. As in, individuals with higher social rank may have increased availability to and greater power over fashion currents, namely through the inception of new styles or the capacity to acquire new and unique fashion products. These individuals may also have greater access to fashion media and education (even something as simple as an annual subscription to Vogue magazine), making it easier for them to stay up-to-date about the latest fashion trends and foster a nuanced understanding of style and fashion. The birth of haute couture in the nineteenth century in Paris established the exclusivity of fashion and instilled its image as an emblem of luxury and wealth. Couture translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing or needlework and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit. Haute translates literally to “high” and is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion, constructed by hand from start-to-finish.
Fashion can also solidify certain societal or cultural norms about what ‘appropriate dressing’ for various social milieus (like business environments, formal settings or leisure activities) may be. This further strengthens the current power disparities, as individuals at the top of the social ladder are able to use fashion to showcase their status and reinforce their power, while individuals at a lower social rank may find difficulties in attaining and using fashion in ways that allow them to indicate their position and fit in with the standards of their social clique. Overall, the interrelation between fashion and social status is labyrinthine and layered, embracing both physical and emblematic elements of fashion, and also the purpose of fashion in upholding cultural beliefs, norms, and power dynamics within society.
French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu’s cultural capital theory, that functions as a form of capital that individuals can use to improve their social and economic positions, examines the role that cultural knowledge, skills, education, and other forms of cultural capital play in establishing social status and moulding societal inequalities. In the case of fashion, clothing, accessories, and other forms of adornments can serve as an emblem of social status and power, thus contributing to the generation and instillment of class distinction and social disparities. We see that fashion is closely linter-linked to social organisations such as education, media, and politics. Education shapes the societal norms and values that people conform to and determines what is considered fashionable as well as ‘appropriate’ in a society. The media also plays an important role in the advocation of fashion trends by showcasing the latest styles and designers through fashion magazines, advertisements, and other forms of media. In politics, fashion is often used as a means to exude power and status, as politicians use their attire to signal their richness, authority, and political affiliations. For instance, Jacqueline Kennedy is known for the establishment of the First Lady style which often constituted pillbox hats and skirt suits from Chanel and Oleg Cassini.
Furthermore, fashion can play a significant role in shaping and reinforcing identities with respect to gender, race, and class. Gendered fashion and dress codes can contribute to the supplementing of gender norms and the longevity of gender discrepancies in society. Within the context of fashion, feminist theory, that explores the role of gender in the distribution of power and the creation of social hierarchies, examines how the fashion industry reinforces gender-based power dynamics through the representation of gender in fashion, as well as the impact fashion has on the erection and fortification of gender identities. Feminist theorists argue that fashion eternises patriarchal ideologies and instills gender inequalities through the application of traditional gender roles and norms in adornments and also beauty standards. Even globalisation and neoliberal policies impact the fashion industry and the ways in which these forces contribute to the reinforcement of gender-based power imbalances. The rise of globalisation and the globalisation of markets has created an interrelated world economy that has allowed for the rapid spread of ideologies, products and cultures. The fashion industry has created opportunities for the growth of businesses and increased accessibility to newer markets with the help of development of new production methods and the increase of low-cost labour. These changes have led to fast fashion, impacting the fashion industry, as well as the way fashion is perceived, consumed and applied in society. Globalisation’s impact on the fashion industry encompasses a range of economic, cultural and social factors that have left a mark on society.
The interplay between fashion, globalisation, and feminist theory highlights the complex ways in which fashion reinforces social status and power differences within society. Through the examination of market segmentation theory and social identity theory, we can interpret that fashion serves as a symbol of cultural capital and reinforces class differences, while also shaping and reinforcing individual and group identities. It can also be interpreted as a form of non-verbal communication that conveys messages about a person's social status, values, and cultural beliefs. The way people dress can influence their own behaviour and attitudes, as well as the behaviour and attitudes of those around them. For example, one may feel more confident and assertive when wearing certain types of clothing, like a suit for a formal meeting. At the group level, fashion and dress can reinforce collective beliefs and norms pertaining to a certain group. For instance, shared dress codes can help to build a sense of community and reinforce group identity, like uniforms for sports teams. In addition, fashion can also reflect power dynamics within these groups, such as gender, class, and race. For example, the way women's fashion has been habitually constrained compared to men's may reflect gender inequalities.
Fashion can also be seen as a means of resistance or challenge to existing power structures in society. Individuals can signal their opposition to dominant cultural norms, values and power structures by rejecting the dominant fashion trends and styles in favour of more individualistic, alternative or non-conformist styles. The punk movement led by Vivienne Westwood in the 1970s faced a lot of criticism as it did not align with the cultural beliefs and societal norms of the time. By using fashion individuals can express their own unique identity and beliefs, which can have a transformative effect on the broader cultural landscape. It can also be seen as a form of social protest, where individuals collectively reject dominant norms and values in an attempt to challenge the existing power structures and bring about social change.
The shortcomings and challenges of using fashion as a symbol of social status and power are rooted in the complex and multi-layered nature of the relationship between fashion and society. The fluid and ever-changing nature of fashion can make it difficult to use it as a reliable indicator of social status and power. The way in which fashion is perceived and evaluated can vary across cultures and subcultures, further complicating its use as a symbol of social status and power. Fashion can also be used to conceal or manipulate social status and power, making it difficult to use it as a reliable indicator of these constructs. Finally, the commodification of fashion and the emphasis on consumer culture can limit its potential to challenge existing power structures and reinforce existing inequalities. These limitations demonstrate the need for a nuanced and critical understanding of the complex relationship between fashion and social status, power and hierarchy.
In conclusion, fashion is a complex and multifaceted concept that reviews and moulds social norms, values, and power dynamics within society. The interplay between fashion, social status, power, and hierarchy creates a dynamic relationship that impacts individuals' lives and the larger cultural, political, and economic spheres. Understanding this relationship is crucial in order to gain insights into the mechanisms that shape our identities and behaviours and how it affects inequality, cultural change, and globalisation. Overall, the relationship between fashion and society is intricate and dynamic, and a deeper understanding of this relationship can provide valuable insights into the ways in which our social and cultural realms are shaped by fashion.
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